If you've ever considered transforming inherited jewelry into something new, especially for a wedding or engagement ring, you might be wondering how that process actually works.
One of the most common techniques I use for this is lost wax casting. It’s a centuries-old method that still offers one of the most precise and personal ways to create jewelry. And it’s especially useful when working with sentimental materials, like family gold.
Step 1: The Gold
Customers often come to me with old wedding rings, chains, or other heirloom pieces. We start by assessing the gold, both its quality and quantity, to see what can be reused.
Because sentimental value is at the heart of this process, I work with a caster who uses a dedicated flask for each client. That means your gold is used only for your piece. It’s never mixed with anyone else’s. If there isn’t enough to create the new design, we can add matching gold to reach the required amount and alloy it appropriately.
Step 2: Creating the Master Model
Before the casting can happen, we need a physical model of the ring or piece we’re making. This is called the master.
There are two ways I typically create it:
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Option 1: Molded Model
We’ll source a sample ring, usually in a base metal, in the right size and shape, then make a mold from it. From that mold, we create a wax version of the ring. -
Option 2: CAD + 3D Printing
For more custom designs, I create the model digitally using CAD software. Once the design is approved, it’s printed in castable wax, ready for the next step.
Step 3: The Casting Process
Now we use the lost wax casting technique, a process that lives up to its name.
The wax model is attached to a wax “sprue” (basically a stem that allows the molten metal to flow into the mold), then placed in a steel container called a flask. The flask is filled with a fine plaster-like substance and cured. Once solidified, the flask is heated and the wax melts and drains away, leaving behind a cavity in the exact shape of your piece.
Then the melted gold is poured into the mold, filling the space where the wax used to be. Once cooled, the flask is broken open and your newly cast piece is ready to be cleaned, polished, stones set (if needed) and finished.
Why Lost Wax for Family Gold
It’s one of the few methods that allows you to retain the material from a past generation and reshape it into something new, wearable, and meaningful.
The final piece might look brand new, but its foundation is rooted in family history, carrying the weight of memory and the energy of transformation.
One of my favorite examples is a ring I made using a wedding band that travelled from Soviet-era Ukraine, passed down through generations before being reshaped into a new engagement ring. If you’d like to read more, you can find the full story here.
Thinking of Repurposing Family Gold
If you’re curious about transforming heirloom jewelry into a new custom piece, whether it’s for a wedding, engagement, or just something meaningful for yourself, I’d love to talk more.
Reach out to start a custom project, or reply with any questions.